#136b Through the Fog

Fleeter Log #136b

Through the Fog
2008 December 10-21

This is the second part of my Florida and Texas trip.
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Interactive map of this trip.

Day 8, Wednesday
December 10, 2008
135 miles

Snow in Texas

Growing up in Texas, I have never thought of December as being a particularly cold month. In South Texas, it was not unheard of for our family to have Christmas dinner outside on picnic tables.

But today wasn't one of those picnic kind of days. None the less, I will be riding from the Texas/Louisiana border to just north of Houston. By the time I pull into my friend's house in Magnolia, Texas there will be snow falling. Not a lot of snow, but the point is that it's that kind of weather--cold and overcast in Texas.

It's not the first time I've seen it on the RT instrument panel, but the first time I've seen it while riding in South Texas. When it gets down to 35 degrees, a flashing snowflake icon appears.

I stop in Beaumont to meet a friend at Willy Ray's BBQ. Best BBQ in the area! I don't care how much they brag, it doesn't make those other states' BBQ better than TEXAS BBQ! I highly recommend Willy Ray's for anyone wanting to try the best BBQ!

I took hwy 105 through Sour Lake, Cleveland, and Cut & Shoot on my way to Magnolia.
While eating at Willy Ray's, it had started raining. The kind of rain that you could just tell would rather be snow. At 4pm, I pull into Rita & Tom's driveway though the light snow flurries and am glad to have a warm home waiting for me.


Friday, December 12, 2008
A new Marine gets his bars!

The reason for this trip to Texas is to attend the commissioning of a future Marine. Rita's elder son, Andrew, sure looks good in a Marine uniform. Semper Fi, Drew!

The tradition of the First Salute, also know as the Silver Dollar Salute, is for the new Officer to slip a silver dollar to the one who offers him the first salute.

Andrew honored his A&M Corp background for his First Salute.

I salute you, Drew!

The juxtaposition of Kyle Field and the street sign makes me think of someone...
You know who you are!

My second home in Magnolia, Texas under an extra bright full moon.

Day 11, Saturday
December 13, 2008
190 miles

Ride with Jerry

The last couple days the RT stayed tucked safely away in my friends' garage. But with nice weather arriving for the weekend, I'll be out rolling with my friend, Jerry.

We stopped for pie in Anderson, Grimes County.

When I spotted this building next to the train track in Navasota, I had to do a U-turn . . . I smelled a photo-op. Jerry was quick to follow my lead and follow me back to the gravel parking lot. By the end of the day, he learned that following a flower sniffer involves lots of U-turns!

A shortcut through William Penn on the way to Independence. The first time I was on this road was in May 2006 while following Ana (Fleeter Log # 21).

We were on our way to Clay, Texas. It's just a small place off the beaten path. Not much to see there, but I lucked out finding this rock entry sign just down the road at someone's private gate.

Some careful placement makes the sign look like a personal statement.

Stickers in Texas! Possibly the reason I never learned to go barefoot.

Train depot in Burton, Texas

By late afternoon the pie was a distant memory and my stomach was ready to make new memories. Jerry knew of this little cafe in Chappell Hill and it was well worth the stop.

Life is good in Texas!

Day 16, day
December 18, 2008
417 miles

Fog to Ferry

Texas knows fog. Sometimes it can linger well into the day. This morning I wake up to soup . . . outside in the form of fog. I decide that it's not worth waiting half a day for it to lift. I saddle up and ride.

Polk County Courthouse in Livingston, Texas: I have a cousin that used to work in there . . .
the basement I think, but still.

Tyler County Courthouse in Woodville, Texas

Even 120 miles down the road the fog is still so thick that visibility remains an issue.
The moisture is not rain, just the condensation from the thick fog.

US190 over the B. A. Steinhagen Reservoir at Martin Dies State Park between Woodville and Jasper, Texas.

The reservoir is built on the Neches River.

Vernon Parish in Leesville, Louisiana

Leesville, Louisiana

By 2pm, I was beginning to feel an empty feeling in my stomach so Rosie's Diner in Simmesport, LA lured me in for a look at the menu.

Classic diner style building and food. I was the only customer there -- guess I missed the lunch rush.

Lettsworth, LA may not be much of a town, but it still has a place on the railroad map.

The 'plan' was to cross the Mississippi River between New Roads and St. Francisville, LA then find a room for the night in St. Francisville. But when fleetering, it is always good to keep a flexible attitude or else moments like this could torque your day. As the sun sets low, I am less than 4 miles away from stopping for the night -- all I have to do is get on a ferry and cross the river.

However . . . The ferry apparently isn't running. The only sign cluing me in to this fact is the one setting in the middle of the road just as the ferry comes into sight down the hill parked on the bank of the Mississippi. Some readers may recall a similar situation crossing the Mississippi from Modac to Ste. Genevieve in at the end of Day 7 in Fleeter Log #135. Didn't get a ferry ride that evening either. This time the change in plans means routing myself though Baton Rouge during rush hour traffic (there's nothing rushing about it!) adding 100 miles to my day.

Following the Mississippi River south into Baton Rouge. The river is on the left on the other side of that berm.

Once I finally make it through the heavy I10 traffic of Baton Rouge and start moving again, I am ready to put some miles between me and the freeway. My plan is to stay a comfortable distance from I10 and stick to the smaller roads and communities. So I make my way to Amite, LA for the night.

Day 17, Friday
December 19, 2008
529 miles

Dothan Decision

Before pulling out of Amite, LA this morning, I take my walk around the RT for a once over. It's not the dirtiest it's been, but far from clean. At least it's just dirt, no seeping final drive fluid . . . which is a good thing.

Another foggy winter day in the Southeast. But at least it's not cold -- only 67 degrees.

I take LA hwy10 and come across this hungry bunch.
Can you see who seems to be working real hard at fitting into the herd?

In Bogalusa, LA, I spied Santa getting a last two-wheeled ride in before trading the motorcycle for his sleigh to make his annual trek around the would.
Another day of getting off the main road. This really is a public road I found southeast of Hattisburg, MS near Camp Shelby Military Reservation.

Finding myself on dirt roads isn't unheard of either.
Somewhere near the Mississippi / Alabama state line.

Deer Park, Alabama

Perry Store, Alabama

I make it to Dothan, Alabama shortly after dark. I haven't eaten since my waffle at the hotel this morning and the DQ was pulling me in.

On this trip I made a huge faux paux and it was somewhere in Mississippi or Alabama that I realized it. I don't know how it happened. I just wasn't thinking. I've never been too good at dealing with numbers so I guess I could blame it on being a "number thing." Somehow I let the odometer run way past where I should have been logging a scheduled service (24k). According to the odometer I should have had an oil change back in Florida -- 2, 000 miles ago. Shame on me! I am a horrible RT caretaker! Because of this oversight, I start considering options for getting the RT's belly properly scratched as soon as possible. I'm still 1,000 miles away from home. Should I go directly to a dealer before going back to VA? Tomorrow is Saturday. If I can't get a dealer to fit me in tomorrow here in the Southeast, then it won't happen until Tuesday (most BMW dealer's are closed on Sun/Mon). Should I find the supplies and attempt an oil change myself? Or should I just ride home without being too hard on the throttle?

I decide to phone a friend. Charles lives in Marietta (NE of Atlanta), just 223 miles from here and somewhat on the way with a slight rerouting. He has a garage. He knows how to service BMWs. He's a teacher. He can help me/teach me to change the oil and I can have the rest of the major service items taken care of by Mortons BMW when I get home. I get Charles on the phone and explain to him my faux paux. I await the verbal lashing. But Charles is a kind soul and a patient fella. He goes easy on me. He assures me that the RT will survive the trip home . . . just be gentle on the throttle. However, I am welcome to come to Atlanta for a couple options. He feels that Atlanta BMW will take care of me tomorrow OR I am welcome to use his garage to attemp the oil change myself. However, he is booked solid tomorrow and won't have time for a "garage day."

Add to the decision process the weather coming in. Cold, wet weather. If I ride a direct line (no little forays into Florida, no zigzagging looking for flowers to sniff) back to Virginia, I should arrive in Virginia about the same time the cold weather blows past the Blue Ridge Mountains bringing freezing temperatures into eastern Virginia. If I dawdle, I will have a cold, wet day for my last day on the road.

Strolling around the DQ parking lot, I sip on my cola as I discuss these factors with Charles. I decide to reroute a direct-ish line from Dothan to Fredericksburg on the secondary highways. Before leaving the parking lot, I digitally save the scene where I "phoned a friend" for sage advice to help me with my Decision made in Dothan.
I leave Dothan about 7:20pm with the idea that Albany, about 90 miles away, will be a good place to stop for the night. Since I'll be arriving late on a weekend, I phone in a reservation. Decisions have been made. All is settled. Heading to Albany.

Seems that even after dark, I can't turn off the urge to sniff out one last photo op before crossing the state line from Alabama into Georgia. Probably not the smartest idea to be playing around off the pavement in the dark. But I got the photo and my butt never left the saddle. RT puts out pretty decent light, don't ya think? Stock lights with a bit of help from Motolights mounted low on the forks.

Day 18, Saturday
December 20, 2008
414 miles

Albany to Lugoff and Home

This is where I landed last night after 9pm. I couldn't see much in the dark, but I could see enough to know that it had lots of character. The main building started out as the manor house built in 1934 at the Merry Acres Farm just outside of Albany, Georgia. As Albany grew, the farm found itself in a prime location to show some southern hospitality to travelers passing through the southwest. Merry Acres Farm became Merry Acres Motel. The owners moved into the upstairs portion of the manor house and converted the downstairs into the office and common area. Merry Acres Motel started with a wing of rooms on each side of the house, but eventually grew as more rooms were added on the backside around the also newly added swimming pool.

Merry Acres is now owned by Quality Inn. I am glad to see a major chain taking interest in the older properties. In my opinion, keeping the property's character under new management is a much better answer than razing the old buildings to build a new box with rooms that look like all the other boxes with rooms. I hope this becomes a trend. I, for one, will support their effort by visiting these type properties when looking for an overnight home while on the road.

Following hwy 300 to the northeast takes me along railroad tracks and several old depots.
This old depot south of Warwick appears to have been relocated. That, or the tracks have been relocated.

Past Cordele, I take US280 through Pitts, GA and on to Vidalia.

Rochelle, GA
Notice the labels on the jugs? Shop, Rye, Cheer

Wilcox County courthouse in Abbeville, GA.

Abbeville is known as the Wild Hog Capital of Georgia.
The Wild Hog Festival is where you go to show off your dancing skills at the Waller Dance.

This deserted shack caught my attention not just because it looks like it has been here long enough to be the setting of some interesting stories, but for what I saw in the window.

The dilapidated building obviously has no electricity, but this window fan was spinning like it still has a purpose and doesn't know that it was long ago abandoned. Kind of a "disconnect feeling" to see the fan spinning like it was still in use . . .

VIDEO

Still following the railroad tracks. Still coming across old train depots.
This one is in Milan, GA

I see this "final transport" a few miles west of Vidalia. It deserves a U-turn for a closer look and documentation for the Fleeter Log.

Vidalia is known for more than just antique funeral wagons.

Between Swainsboro and Twin City, I spot this fella at a wide spot in a creek. Yep. Another U-turn. I went back to see if he was catching anything. Not yet he said, but sometimes its not just about hooking the fish, but more about watching the cork bob in the slow current. Don't I know it! Another philosopher with a fishing pole.

Jenkins County courthouse in Millen, GA.

My final stop in Georgia is at the Visitor Center on US301. This is the kind of visitor center I like best. It's on a secondary highway without a lot of people milling about. Whenever I see these, I always stop and take advantage of the center. When stopping at these locations, be sure to sign the guest book. Hopefully, they will have enough numbers to justify staying open. Just across the state line on the South Carolina side, I notice their abandoned visitor center with barricades blocking the entrance and an overgrown landscape. Sad.

The dark clouds are catching up to me and the wind is blowing in cooler air.

Another sign of yesteryear along US301. Places like this remind me how the US highways used to be the main thoroughfare as people traveled across counties or states.

Calhoun County Courthouse in St. Matthews, SC.

The sun disappears as I ride the last 45 miles north on US601 from St. Matthews to Lugoff. I get a few drops of rain as I go through my "end of the day" routine securing the RT and farkles for the night and getting myself settled at the Quality Inn. A couple hours later the wind picks up and the rain starts comeing down with purpose.

Day 19, Sunday
December 21, 2008
397 miles

Trying to Outride the Clouds

The next morning it's still raining. A little bit cool and a lot of wet at 8am while I'm packing up to depart Lugoff, SC. I leave the cover half on the RT as strap on my duffle, put on my tankbag, and get the GPS connected. Since the rain is still coming down steady, I put on my helmet and riding jacket first. Why not? The helmet and jacket will keep me dry as I go through my "saddling up" routine.

Light rain at the train depot in McBee, SC.

McBee, SC is home to A.O. Smith.
This brings back memories of my swimming pool service days with DCC.
A.O. Smith is a company that makes motors. Lots of those motors find themselves attached to pumps circulating pool water.

Still following train tracks and finding old train depots along the way.
Here's one in Patrick, SC.

Remember that cold weather I spoke of during my Decision in Dothan? Well, last night's rain was only the beginning of a weather system moving in. That was the wet stuff, but the cold stuff is still on it's way. Here we see that I'm soon to be meeting the cold stuff.

I decide maybe it's time to get something to eat today when I make a fuel stop in Apex, NC. The temperature has dropped to 48 degrees and that calls for adding another layer. Time to pull out my quilted jacket liner and pull on another Buff around my neck.

The smells from the Bojangles next to my fuel stop convinces me that I'm hungry for chicken. A couple of the employees there were quite taken with the RT and the fact that I was on my way to Fredericksburg, VA. When they found out that I was in southern Georgia just yesterday and Texas a couple days before that . . . well, they just didn't know what to say. But one of them kept repeating how she wished she could do something like that. I asked, "Why not?" I suggested she find an MSF class and find a small used motorcycle to see how it feels. Who knows where it may take her!

From the Bojangles in Apex, the RT takes me without delay to my next stop. Less than a gas tank away and 230 miles later, I arrive home in Fredericksburg. By the time I pull into the driveway at home, it's 36 degrees and dropping. I was glad for the quilted liner, but thinking again about the electric heated gear so may riders use. Maybe . . .

WWW Ride Summary
Total trip miles: 3,777
States fleetered in this trip: 9
Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas

#136a Following the Gulf Coast: Cedar Key to Texas

Log #136a
Wizard's Wild Weekend!
Cedar Key, Florida
2008 December 3-9

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Interactive map of this trip can be found here:
http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=576

For the past three years, Kevin Healy has invited his MTF friends to meet him in Cedar Key in early December. This is the first year that I will join them. Sylvia and I will ride to Cedar Key together, then Sunday we will head north together and midday she will split off to the northeast back to Virginia and I will follow the Florida coast west as I head to Texas.

Day 1, Wednesday
December 3, 2008
277 miles

Salem Church Ruins

Sylvia had some things to take care of Wednesday morning so it was 2pm before we were ready to pullout of Fredericksburg on I95 to make tracks southbound to Florida. Even though we left in the middle of the day, the temperature was only 46 degrees. The sun sets early this time of year and when we loose the sun, we get cold fast.

We stop for the night in Fayetteville, NC just after 7pm. We fuel up the bikes and have Subway for supper while I call Choice Hotels for a room at the Quality Inn down the road.

Day 2, Thursday
December 4, 2008
374 miles

The morning gets off to a slow start and it's 10:25am by the time we pull out of the Quality Inn. We cross the border into South Carolina at 11:30am and make the obligatory visit to Pedro.
Alpha Man is another "flat visitor" that arrived for a visit from Texas.
Alpha Man tries out a new hairdo, but decides that it's not for him.
Instead, he tries out a sombrero.
Enough time spent here. Time to fly south!
Nothing remarkable about traveling south on I95. We make the miles until it's time to exit for the one side trip I wanted to make today near Sheldon, SC to see the Old Sheldon Church Ruins.
We arrive as the sun sinks behind the trees and throws shadows from the ruins.
The church building was burned down twice: Once during the Revolutionary War by the British and again during the Civil War by the Federal Army.

We make it to Brunswick, GA after dark and meet some of Sylvia's friends for supper before checking into our hotel on the south side of town at 9:40pm.


Day 3, Friday
December 5, 2008
205 miles

Folkston Funnel

We left Brunswick, GA under overcast skies with temperatures in the mid 50s. We traveled about 17 miles south on I95 before taking exit 14 and headed west across the southeast tip of Georgia. Looking at the map this section of Georgia reminds me of a duodenum. I'm not sure what the locals call this area, but "the Duodenum of Georgia" would make sense to me. After all, Florida and Texas both have a Panhandle . . .

We thought we were simply on our way to the Okefenokee Swamp, but a surprise bonus location was put in our path before we arrived at the Okefenokee. We pulled into Folkston, GA from the east and by the time we made it to the railroad tracks, we knew that this was a unique little town. The population of Folkston in the last census (2000) was only 2,178. During its earlier days, Folkston was the self-proclaimed "Marriage Capital of the World" due to the number of Floridians whose passion could not endure their state's waiting period to tie the knot. They would travel north into Georgia in search of more lenient requirements. The amorous couples would find themselves entering Folkston single, but leaving town in the state of wedded bliss...or at least legally married.

But what got our attention was the number of train tracks running north/south and the fact that the rails never seem to have the chance to cool before another train comes though the middle of this small town. In fact, there are so many trains coming through here that this small town has been dubbed "The Folkston Funnel." There are actually up to 80 trains a day passing through Folkston as they come and go from Florida to the rest of the nation.
The town has embraced it's fate and rather than complaining of the noise and interruption of local traffic, have embraced with open arms the Railfans that come from around the country to watch trains pass through town. The town has even built a special covered platform near the tracks for those participating in the sport/hobby of "Fanning the Funnel." The platform is even equipped with a scanner to allow the rail fans to listen in on the railroad radio traffic.
The old restored train depot is home to the local visitor center and a railroad museum. There are souvenirs available for purchase in case visitors wish to return the open arm embrace of Folkston by opening their wallets before leaving town.

Alpha Man was impressed with the "juice trains" in the display case. We didn't get to see one come though the funnel, but heard that the juice trains get priority. If there is ever another train wanting to use the track at the same time as a juice train, the juice train will win. The Florida juice must get through!
Before we get too caught up in fanning the funnel at Folkston, we see the time and remember that we still need to make our way to the other popular local attraction -- the Okefenokee Swamp.
Only 10 miles southwest of Folkston is the east entrance to the National Wildlife Refuge, the Okefenokee! I position the RT down in the ditch for a photo-op with the entrance sign for my flat visitor, Alpha Man.

Once inside the park, we find the visitor center and see there are lots of boats waiting to take visitors for a tour the swamp, but we take note of the weather as a few drops start to fall and decide to saddle up and keep moving toward our destination of Cedar Key. I sure would like to arrive in Cedar Key in time to see the sun set over the Gulf of Mexico.

We leave Okefenokee and pass right through the "duodenum of Georgia" and into Florida. If anyone wants to visit the duodenum of Georgia, set the GPS for St. George, Georgia.

Alpha Man at the Florida state line on highway 121.
We couldn't miss this fruit stand on CR 129 where we crossed over I10 near Sanderson, Florida.
We enter Florida about 1:30pm and stopp in Lake Butler for lunch at a small deli about 2:30pm. Byt he time we leave Lake Butker, there's a light rain, but nothing heavy as we zigzagg our way southwest across Florida to find the "lost key" on the western shores of northern Florida due west of Ocala. Anyone that knows the geography of Florida, will realize that this is NOT where Florida generally keeps the Keys. Generally when looking for Keys in Florida, you would travel as far south as possible until you hit the Overseas Highway. That road will take you down the chain of Keys all the way to the "lowest key" of Key West. But Cedar Key is lost . . . or hidden . . . however you choose to see its location, it's not found with the rest of the Keys. We follow highway 24 and arrive at the Cedar Key welcome sign on the edge of town at 5:19pm.
By 5:27pm, I'm taking photos of the sunset.

If you listen closely, you can hear the bird's wings flapping and the distant sizzle as the hot sun gently lowers itself into the extinguishing waters of the Gulf of Mexico. I take a deep sigh. We made it in time to see the sunset over the Gulf of Mexico.
This is the view from the motel parking lot just a block away from where I took the previous photos.
After getting parked, unpacked, and settled into the Beachfront Motel, we started mingling with other motorcyclists in the parking lot. Some of the folks I knew from other similar gatherings and some I had never met before. But within a few minutes, I had added more faces to the "known" column.

After dark settled in, we gathered in the motel parking lot and walked en masse to Dock Street to the Dock Street Depot for supper. Dock Street is the "happening place" in Cedar Key, especially after dark when weekend sailors (and bikers) come in looking for a meal and/or a party.


Day 4, Saturday
December 6, 2008
10 miles

A Day in Cedar Key

Obviously, today wasn't a day about riding the miles. Far from it.
We are in Cedar Key, Florida . . . in December. We are going to enjoy being here. We start the day by walking to breakfast at Annie's Cafe.
Annie's is a small place with a relaxed atmosphere. There wasn't much room inside with most of the Wizard's friends arriving ahead of us.
So Sylvia and I sat with a few others on the back screened porch overlooking this channel.
When we got back from breakfast, some saddled up for a ride to lunch at Horseshoe Beach about 75 miles away. These are some of Wizard's friends that regularly attend this gathering. They've already seen Cedar Key and are ready to expand their exploring.

The rest of us decided to stay around Cedar Key to see the local sights. Cedar Key is a little place. It shouldn't take long.
One of my obvious mandatory photo-op stops is the post office.
Cedar Key, Florida 32625
The local grocery store shows a little local culture.
This is looking back at our motel from Palmetto Drive. We are staying at the Beachfront Motel which sits right on the point.
A small channel that leads to the Gulf of Mexico.
Pretentious ISN'T a word that comes to mind in Cedar Key.
This property didn't have any vacancies. It's know as the Honeymoon Suite.
Those of us that were in the motel's parking lot gathered for a group photo as the sun sank low.

(click to enlarge any photo)

After dark, we walked back to Dock Street again, but this time gathered at the Seabreeze Restaurant for our evening meal and more social time.


Day 5, Sunday
December 7, 2008
293 miles

Riding The Nature Coast to The Forgotten Coast

Sunday morning we take our time getting up and loaded to go. Our first stop is breakfast at Annie's Cafe before leaving town. Most of Wizard's friends had already cleared breakfast and were miles down the road toward their own destinations when we walked in careful not to let the screen door slam behind us. We eat breakfast while visiting a bit with Jim & Donna Phillips of 2-up rally fame and before we knew it, the time was already 10am when we leave Cedar Key in our review mirrors.
Sylvia and I ride north from Cedar Key to Chiefland where we take a jog westward to look for sea cows.
Our destination is Manatee Springs State Park located on the Suwannee River. If we're lucky, the manatee will be visiting.
This section of the Florida coast from Tampa Bay north to Florida's Panhandle near Carabelle, FL is known as The Nature Coast.
The old time boaters and travelers knew it a "the lonesome leg" of Florida.
Manatee Springs was registered as a Natural Landmark by the U.S. Department of Interior in 1972. It is a first magnitude spring discharging an average of 100 million gallons of water every day. The waters are a constant 72 degrees, providing a warmth for the manatee during the winter - November through April.
We searched the clear spring waters, but saw no manatee today. The park is a popular place for snorkeling and scuba divers, but today the waters flowed undisturbed. Maybe the sign below has something to do with that. It got the attention of AlphaMan and his friend, Flat Francisco. They were on the lookout for the gators, but we saw none.
After visiting the springs, we take a stroll on the boardwalk to a floating boat dock on the Suwannee River.
The Suwannee River starts its journey at the Okefenokee Swamp in Georgia meandering 266 miles and crossing Florida to the Gulf of Mexico. It provides the division separating Florida's Panhandle from the rest of the state.
The river was named Suwani meaning "Echo River" by the native Timucuan Indians.
Stephen Foster wrote the song "Old Folks at Home" also known as 'Swanee River', though he never saw the Suwannee River made famous in his song. Florida adopted this song as their official state song in 1935.

Fishing on the Suwannee River.
From here, Sylvia and I will take separate roads. She will head back to Virginia and I will follow the Florida Coast toward Texas.

The RT waiting to take me back on the road.
I travel north along The Nature Coast on US19.
When I pass through Old Town, Florida my inquiring mind asks these questions:
How old does a town have to be to be called Old Town? What was it called before being called Old Town? Maybe New Town?
US19 onto US98 and continue westward following the coast.
Just west of Perry, as I'm traveling through a rather tall and thick stand of palm trees, I look up to see a bald eagle flying overhead. Seeing a bald eagle while fleetering always seems to me to be a good sign. Last year I saw one as I crossed from Maine into Canada.

It was along here I saw this sign. Made me think of the big "Snipe Hunts" in Texas. (nudge, nudge, wink, wink)
Bit of trivia: The Snipe bird is a shore bird that is very difficult to hunt even for a truly experienced snipe hunter. The term "sniper" came to mean a marksman so skilled as to be able to shoot a snipe. Now you know . . .
As I cross the Ochlockonee Bay, I leave The Nature Coast behind and enter The Forgotten Coast.
Ochlockonee Bay transitions the Ochlockonkee River to the Gulf of Mexico.

The Forgotten Coast of Florida.

Fleetering The Forgotten Coast of Florida.

Carrabelle, Florida

The World's Smallest Police Station" since 1963.
The phone company provided a booth for the official police phone that up until then had been in a call box bolted on the side of a building.

Dog Island is an island located off the coast near Carrabelle.
When I saw this paw print in the sand, I guessed it might one of the island dogs visiting the mainland. (It's the little clues/signs that one has to pay attention to in life.)
Carrabelle Beach is west of town and has a special place in WWII history. This is the D-Day training site. In 1943 the Army's 4th Infantry Division trained here and on Dog Island for the Normandy Invasion of 1944. (click to enlarge)
I cast a long shadow as I walk along Carrabelle Beach imagining the amphibious infantry assault teams landing on the sandy shores.
Crossing the Apalachicola Bay bridge at sunset.
Apalachicola is derived from the Indian words meaning "people on the other side of the river" though many of the locals choose to translate it as "land of the friendly people."

Riding into the "land of the friendly people" at sunset.

It was dark as I rode into Mexico Beach, Florida. I stopped in a parking lot to take a photo of some Christmas lights. As I was trying to set the camera up for the shot (helmet and earbuds still in place), I thought I heard someone yelling across the two lane highway. But in the limited light, I couldn't see them. Not that it mattered. None of my business. I don't know anyone in this small coastal town. But the "calling out" seemed to get louder and more insistent. I reached up and muted the XM radio getting piped into my helmet and looked into the darkness toward the voice. I see a fellow crossing the highway. He calls out again, "Hey, Mr. BMW man! Mr. BMW man!"
I realized that he is coming my direction and talking to me. I'm Mr. BMW man . . . in his eyes. Now that he has my attention, he proceeds to invite me to the Christmas Tree Lighting ceremony getting ready to take place at the other end of town -- four blocks away. I decline to remove my helmet or inform him that maybe Ms. BMW woman would have been more correct, but I do decide to take him up on his offer and make my way to join the small crowd gathering at Sunset Park where the large tree is waiting it's moment to shine.

The santa dolphins also attended the tree lighting.

Home for the night is Panama City at the Comfort Inn. A nice place for a few bucks. I got the room for less than $45. They had been forced to reduce rates due to the economy and fuel prices robbing them of their usual number of customers. I just may route myself back through here another time; reasonable rates, clean room, good linens, strong wi-fi signal AND and Schlotzsky's across the street! By 8pm I was sitting across the street enjoying an Austin, Texas original -- a Schlotzsky sandwich.


Day 6, Monday
December 8, 2008
219 miles

Riding The Emerald Coast

I wasn't in a hurry to get on the road today since I'm not planning on many miles, but then I got to talking to some of the employees of the motel (guess they weren't too busy since I was about the only guest they had staying that night) and ended up leaving later than I wanted to leave.

Even with my late start, I take my time and follow FL30 that hugs the coast until it joins back up to US98. I can imagine that during the busy season this would be a very busy stretch of road, but on this Monday in early December, the traffic is very light and I am able to whip a u-turn when and where I wish.

This section is known as The Emerald Coast, so named for the green water lapping at the white sandy beaches. It is filed with hotels, resorts, shops and restaurants all here no doubt to get a piece of the spring break crowd and other tourists seeking the calming effects of the Emerald Coast.
This shark hanging at Sharky's Restaurant caught my eye. I thought it would make a good photo op for AlphaMan.

I found this mural on a beach outfitter shop.

If you've never had a Whataburger, you've been deprived! Whataburger is always on my list of places to stop whenever I go south because . . . Whataburger is what a burger should be! Usually I have to get to Texas before I can sink my teeth into one. If you're not in the mood for a hamburger, try the Whatachick'n or Whatacatch (fish).
The first Whataburger was opened in Corpus Christi, Texas in August 1950. I had my first Whataburger in San Antonio in the 1960's. I found this one in Destin, Florida just before crossing the bridge at Choctawhatchee Bay.
After eating my Whataburger and making a phone call, I ride across the street and take a walk along the waterfront. I met this pelican hanging out waiting to be fed trash fish by the local fishermen.
He raised his neck to get a better look at me when I 'ooched' up close to take these pictures. There's no zoom involved here. He actually let me get this close.
After passing Fort Walton Beach and Elgin Air Force Base, I continue following US98 and see these Palm Tikis. After about 1/2 a mile, I talk myself into turning around to take a better look.

I met Charlie, the Tiki artist. He's a friendly sort and takes a break from his chainsaw to chat with me a bit. I end up buying this one -- to be shipped home of course. PalmTiki
Fifteen miles after the stopping at Charlie's TikiPalm studio, I'm pulling into the Gulf Island National Seashore, Naval Live Oaks Visitor Center in Gulf Breeze, Florida.
Out behind the visitor center, there's a deck and a hiking trail.
That's Santa Rosa Island off in the distance with the Gulf of Mexico on the other side of it.

I managed to find my way to the water.

My BMW All Round riding boots are indeed waterproof.

Time to follow the sun. My plan is to make it through Alabama and into Mississippi before stopping for the night.
About 123 miles later, I arrive in Ocean Springs and find Doughboys. I have a poboy sandwich for supper and get checked into the Quality Inn for the night.


Day 7, Tuesday
December 9, 2008
360 miles

Ghosts Left by Katrina along the Mississippi Sound Coast

Today I am going to try to finish a leg of a ride I started in 2006 -- to survey the damage left by Katrina on August 29, 2005. In May of 2006, I rode US90 along the coast of Mississippi westward as far as Ocean Springs where the US90 bridge from Ocean Springs to Biloxi was wiped out. Today I will cross over the new bridge into Biloxi and continue to follow along the coast of the Mississippi Sound, passed Pass Christian and over another post-Katrina bridge into Bay St.Louis.

Home last night was the Quality Inn in Ocean Springs, MS.
Before crossing the new bridge, I take a short detour onto Lover's Lane and use someone's decorated gate for a Christmasy pose.
There's Biloxi at the far end of the brand new US90 bridge. The old bridge looks dwarfed next to the new one. It was tossed about like an upset scrabble board by Katrina.
Fleeter FILE photo: The last time I was here was in May 2006. This was as far as I got on US90 before I had to give up the secondary highways and follow the herd on I10.
Link to my Fleeter trip May 2006.
Another file photo from May 2006:
The Biloxi Lighthouse is the only Mississippi lighthouse still standing since Katrina destroyed the other remaining lighthouses in 2005. Built in1848, it's in the only lighthouse in the US to stand in the middle of a four lane highway.
This is the typical view riding from Biloxi to Pass Christian (Harrison County, MS). Beach on left, a lot of large vacant lots on right where high dollar beachfront homes used to sit.
The RT sitting on a side street among old live oaks that are still standing though obviously a few limbs thinner since Katrina passed through. The posts are all that's left of a fence once surrounding a prime lot.

This home was the only surviving building for several blocks.

Notice the rescuer's paint markings. It was searched 9-04, no bodies found here.
The death count in Harrison County contributed to Hurricane Katrina: 126.

Jack says he will be back, but I don't see any sign of him moving back just yet.

This old section of US90 highway leading to the old bridge is still half flooded and half sand covered.

The new US90 bridge between Pass Christian and Bay St. Louis.

Welcome to Bay Saint Louis - A Place Apart.
(click on photos to enlarge)

I came across the solitary building remains in Bay Saint Louis on Beachfront Boulevard.
It is painted with a message: Solid. Everything else in the vicinity has been razed and cleared.
I'm curious enough about what this building's purpose was before Katrina, that I decided to stop and get a closer look.

Seems to me that this was the safe portion of a bank. I guess that explains the "SOLID" message painted on the building. I suppose it will take more than your typical neighborhood bulldozer to demo this structure!

After circling around the town of Bay Saint Louis, I head to I10 in order to make the 300 miles into Texas before the weather hits. I know the weather is moving toward me from Texas, but I should have plenty time in following the fast herd on I10.

My plan went well until 10 miles west of Baton Rouge where we all slowed to a crawl. There must be an accident up ahead, but the question is . . . How far up ahead? After about five miles of constantly feathering the clutch, I decide it's time to make a decision. I see an exit up ahead that will provide me an escape north where I can catch US190 back west. I pull over a few feet past where the exit peels off and got the attention of the truck driver behind me.
As he pulls up next to me, I ask, "How much further does this problem go?"
"10 miles," he said. That decided it for me. I cut a right into the exit lane.

This delay causes me to meet the cold front sooner that I was planning. The winds whipped up and a few rain drops fell as the leading edge blew past me. A few gusts made a serious attempt at separating me from the RT. But the RT and I have bonded too well for that to happen!

My bailout route nearly doubled my miles to Lafayette. I bailed 39 miles back on the freeway, but arrive in Lafayette 68 miles later. The good news is that state highway 77 provided several miles of curvy road through Maringouin on the way to US190 and at Livonia, I joined the Acadiana Trail for a few miles (also known as the Evangeline Highway) that runs from Beaumont, Texas to Baton Rouge, Louisiana.
When I join back with the traffic on I10, the wind has settled down and the temps are a few degrees cooler. Still a good ride as I head to Texas! Just 100 miles to go. I settle in and enjoy the miles rolling by. By the time I get to the Sabine River, it's dark and the I notice a chill as I start to cross over the Sabine River bridge. But when I get to the top of the bridge, I'm watching the numbers drop on the RT's temperature gauge. When I roll off the bridge and onto Texas soil, the temperature has dropped a full 10 degrees since I left Louisiana -- less than 500 yards ago!

At the first exit in Texas, the rain is coming down in buckets. Then by the time I take the second exit, the frontage road is flooding. There's a couple inches that can't drain faster than it pours from the sky. I sit at the light watching the signal swing in the wind and then slowly make my way through the intersection when the light turns green. My friends live only two miles from I10. The rain is coming down so hard that I am depending on the GPS to let me know where to turn because I can't even see 20 feet ahead. Once in their neighborhood, I'm straining to see the driveway as I get close to their house--hoping I can make it out through the lack of visibility. I am relived to see that Carolyn has the garage door raised and the light on -- It's like a lighthouse signaling the path to safety for the wayward traveler. I can't see where the driveway meets the street through the water rushing along the curb, but I follow the light and manage to pull in safely to a dry garage. Thanks, Carolyn!

Sorry for the fuzzy photo, but I think this will spell out the weather I can expect for the next couple days. As you can see: Today-thunderstorms, 48 degrees; Tomorrow-rain showers, 36 degrees; Thursday-snow/rain mix 33 degrees. Welcome to Texas!

This Fleetering Trip will be continued in Fleeter Log #136b