#147 Needles, CA

Fleeter Log #147
Needles, CA
2009 April 30

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:

http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 16 - Thursday

April 30, 2009
231 miles

(click on any photo to enlarge)

By the end of the day, this morning's 58 degrees seem like a distant memory.

I get as far as Williams, AZ during the first 10 degree climb in temperature. Williams is an inviting tourist town without too much tacky tourist glitz. I wouldn't mind spending more time exploring what Williams has to offer next time I'm through this way. At least make a lunch stop here, if not an overnight stop. Williams is the terminus for the Grand Canyon Railway (www.TheTrain.com). You can board the Grand Canyon Railway for a scenic round trip ride to the Grand Canyon South Rim. There are also package deals available to include overnight at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel.

Williams embraces the fact that they are located along old Route 66 and you can see evidence of Route 66 lore throughout town.

Since it was a bit early for me to have lunch in Williams, I asked for a recommendation of a place to eat down the road from the guy washing windshields at the Conoco/Union 76 station. Yes, he was actually offering "full service" to cars fueling up. His suggested Lilo's down the road in Seligman, AZ.

Seligman is another town proud to be along old Route 66.

After eating at Westside Lilo's, I saw this group pull in as I swung back into the saddle. I pulled in next to them as I was ready to head west. They were just getting going on their trip eastward from California to Virginia. The Irony was noted since I left Virginia on my way westward. I gave them my email address, but when I finally heard from them. I scanned past the email thinking I'd return to it later when I was back home from the road. Well, I don't know what happened to the email, but I can't find it. So if you are in this photo, please email me again. Really. I would like to hear from you and I will do better if I get another chance.

By the time I reached Kingman AZ, the temperature was warming up to 83 degrees. But that will feel downright cool compared to what I find down the road.

Mural in Kingman, AZ.

This is where the weather takes a sharp turn up the temperature gauge.

Just like riding into a furnace.

By the time I reach Bullhead City, AZ the mercury was pushing up northward of 98 degrees! The stop and go traffic as I made my way through the city stoplights, took a toll on me. I stopped at a Walgreens and bought two bottles of Gatorade and I didn't save them for later. One was gone by the time I made it back to the GS. I took a couple bottles of water and poured the water over myself as I worked on the second Gatorade while standing next to the GS. Since there was no shade in the parking lot, I didn't dally much. I thought it would be cooler if I could just get out of town to an open roadway where I could get some speed up to help cool me down.

By the time I crossed the Colorado River into Needles, California it was 6pm. I couldn't resist taking a side trip down to the river.

Some neighborhood kids were finding some relief from the heat by taking a swim in the river. I was tempted, but didn't want to shock them by stripping down to my base layer for a dip.

So instead of taking a dip in the Colorado River, I take back to the gravel road to find my way to a motel in Needles.

Home for the night will be the Days Inn in Needles, CA. But before settling in for the evening, I decide to let it cool off a bit (a drop to 90 degrees at 7pm) then head out to find a sit down meal. I also decide to ride back into Arizona for a fuel fill up. Make note: Gasoline is MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE in California! I'll be in California for awhile and will have to pay the higher prices soon enough, but I think I'll but it off for one more tank. So on my way to supper, I slip back into Arizona to contribute to their economy.

Tomorrow: I go in search of Joshua Trees.

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#146 Standing on a Corner in Winslow, Arizona

Fleeter Log #146

Standing on a Corner in Winslow AZ

2009 April 29

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:

http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 15 - Wednesday
April 29, 2009
243 miles

Even though I tend to shun most tourist trap type places, who can travel through the Indian Nation without stopping at least one Indian Store? This is my obligatory stop.

Inside were all type rocks for sale, most from this area, but some from across the country. I spotted a petosky stone on a shelf that is native only to the Lake Michigan shores of northern Michigan. (see the end of Fleeter Log #131).

While browsing the typical wares found in touristy places, I overheard the owner/manager speaking with a salesman. She was browsing a catalog and I overheard her ask if he had any wolf designs on a particular item as she explained to him that her customers think the wolf is very "Indian" and often asks for such. This just struck me as funny that the Indian Store orders their stock to satisfy the tourists' idea of what they think is "Indian stuff."

There were some items specifically marked as "Indian Made" and these were the items from which I made my selections. I wasn't interested in traveling to Arizona to buy something "Made in China" just because it fit my preconception of what "is Indian."

After leaving Chee's Indian Store on the Navajo Nation, I scooted about 40 miles west on I40 to the Petrified Forest National Park. This area has over 13,000 years of human history from prehistoric peoples to the early explorers and even more recent history of Route 66 as it traveled through showing more modern humans the way west from Chicago.

The Painted Desert Inn was first built in 1924 and has served as a restaurant and inn. In 2006 the renovation was complete returning it to its 1949 appearance and it currently serves the Park as a museum and bookstore.

There are many places to pull over for a better look at the Painted Desert.







A remnant of days gone by and a reminder that the original Route 66 passed this way.

Once upon a time, many, many years ago a forest grew here. All that is left are petrified logs. As the earth erodes around them, the logs are left on the surface.


I drove the 20+ mile loop of the park which put me at the park's south side exit onto US180. I rode the few miles into Holbrook where I took a quick look around town before jumping onto I40 to continue my way west.

Joe & Aggies Cafe is a very tempting place get a bite to eat, but I want to keep moving. Hopefully another place with such character will pop up later today when I'm hungry. I'll put this on the list for next time.

Every Eagles fan and most anyone else has heard of Winslow, Arizona.

Jackson Browne wrote the song with Glenn Frey and the Eagles sung the 1972 hit. It was on the Eagle's debut album and the first single released by the iconic band. See the eagle in the first window?

(click on an photo to enlarge)

Thought I'd "take it easy" while standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.

You'll even find the Flat Bed Ford parked near the corner.

I starting getting hungry with all that "standing on the corner" and decided to find a place before leaving town. Just a few blocks over this looked like just the ticket: the Brown Mug Cafe.

I can't stop myself. The tune is stuck in my helmet. I sing it, I whistle it. I hum it. I hear it for the next 70 miles. II call it a night at the Sleep Inn in Flagstaff, Arizona and go to sleep with the Eagles still playing in my head.

Tomorrow:
It's not just a rumor. Needles, California really can get HOT.

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#145 Canyon de Chelly

Fleeter Log #145
Canyon de Chelly
2009 April 28

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:
http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 14 - Tuesday
April 28, 2009
182 miles
Since I haven't had any luck personally making contact with aliens or other world intelligence, today I will go exploring people of the past right here on Earth. I saddle up under sunny skies and a cool 43 degrees -- wonderful riding weather. Only the blowing wind might give me weather issues today.

(click on any photo to enlarge)

I leave New Mexico and ride into Arizona. By crossing this state line, I complete coloring the map of the lower 48 states. In April of 2006, I crossed my first state line by motorcycle. Three years later I achieve my goal of visiting all the lower 48 contiguous states. Maybe someday I will add Alaska to this list, but not this year. After 66,000 miles of wandering around the US over the last 3 years, I have managed to color in this map.

Many people ask me how it is that I can travel across the country on a motorcycle by myself. They are curious of the challenges I face as a solo female rider traveling alone across different geography, climates, etc. Let me take this moment to share with all the Fleeter Log readers what very well may be my biggest challenge: Time. More specifically, what time is it?

I find it hard enough to deal with time changes as I cross time zones, but when other complications enter the equation, I for most part just give up. Time Zones often confuse me enough that I arrive at visitor centers after they've closed. Seldom do I see a sign telling me when I am entering a different time zone. Signs would be helpful. Even when I know that I am crossing a time zone line, the problem is not automatically solved. Now I have to think about if we are in Daylight Savings Time (DST) or not. Next I have to determine if the State line I just crossed put me in a state that does or doesn't observe DST. So maybe I didn't cross into a different Time Zone . . . yet, but the time still shifted an hour because the state line I just crossed put me into a state that doesn't observe DST. But did time jump forward an hour or behind an hour? Then maybe 50 miles into that same state I cross into a new Time Zone. So did I just jump another hour ahead? Or did I lose the hour that I just gained and hour ago? Or did I just recoup the hour I lost 50 miles ago? Or did I lose another hour on top of the hour I lost when I crossed the state line? Whatever all those answers are to the above questions, now reverse them. When I change directions start meeting the sun as it travels across the sky rather than chase it the answers are different. So you think I'm just a bit slow when it comes to word problems in math? Maybe I am, but can you still do the logical math if you are traveling during those two perplexing mornings a year when we wake up reciting to ourselves a rhyme we learned as kids: Spring spring forward, Fall fallback. Then checking the clocks trying to determine if they need manually changing or are they the new smart clock that knows to adjust itself.

This may not be the kind of challenge that inquiring minds were thinking of when they pose to me the question of my traveling challenges. But this is my answer: Without a doubt, Time. What time is it?

Why do I bring this up now? New Mexico does observe DST, Arizona does not observe DST, The Navajo Nation does observe DST, the Hopi Nation does not observe DST (the Hopi Nation is entirely surrounded by the Navajo Nation. Part of the Navajo Nation is in AZ, NM, and UT.) Today I will be in NM, AZ, NN, HN, back to NM, then back to AZ. I will lose count by mid-afternoon how many times I would have to change my watch . . . if I wore one.

It's easier for me to just ask the motel clerk as I check in, "What time is it?" And if I get the simple answer like "ten til" then I'll just bluntly ask, "til what?" And, I will try to schedule any stops at visitor centers for the middle of the day and hope they don't close for lunch.

The Navajo Nation tries to help those of us that are time-keeper challenged.

My first stop today is in Arizona at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. This trading post was operated by the Hubbell family from 1878 to 1967 when it was sold to the National Park Service. NPS ink stamp collected here.

Leaving the Hubbell Trading Post, I enjoy a nice ride along US191 until the wind whips up a nasty sand storm. That's not so much fun when riding a motorcycle.

Canyon de Chelly visitor center is to the northwest of Chinle.

Another NPS ink stamp collected here.

I parked by an obvious reminder that I was currently in an area observing Daylight Savings Time.

Canyon de Chelly is the home to preserved ruins of the early indigenous Pueblo and Navajo tribes that lived in the area over 800 years ago.

In search of a better view down into the Canyon, I parked the GS and find a scenic trail leading to the rim of the Canyon. On my way from the parking lot to the scenic trail, I passed an area were the locals had blankets spread out on the ground with their items displayed for sale to the tourists. In an attempt to help the local economy, I stop to see what they have that I might need. The answer was obvious.

Among the jewelry and pottery, I found just the thing for the GS: Navajo Ghost Beads. These beads are made of Cedar Berry seeds and strung as necklaces, anklets, and bracelets sometimes being combined with colorful plastic or metal beads. These are traditionally worn by the Navajo children to keep away evil spirits. Some motorcycle riders use a gremlin bell for similar such purposes. The GS has gone native and wears the Navajo Ghost beads with confidence.

I continued around the north rim of the Canyon as I head back east toward New Mexico on BIA12, passing a couple small lakes along the way. This small picnic area iss the perfect place to pull over for a snack and a drink. Some moments are just too good to simply ride by; they need a bit more time to soak it all in for full enjoyment.

I continue south on BIA12 to Window Rock, AZ where I stop for the night at the Quality Inn.

Tomorrow: I find a corner to stand on in Winslow, AZ.

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#144 VLA

Fleeter Log #144
VLA
2009 April 27

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:
http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 13 - Monday
April 27, 2009
264 miles
I can't imagine that I was the only guest staying at the Super 8 in Socorro, NM overnight, but I didn't see any other travelers last night or this morning. Maybe it's a sign of the ailing economy or maybe everyone else arrived really late and got an extra early start this morning, but I doubt it. And I don't think it's a commentary on the hospitality of the Super 8. The hotel has been very hospitable during my stay. I have plans for an early lunch, but I feel guilty that I am not eating more of the breakfast that seems to be laid out just for me. I see no one else, other than the breakfast host. She is very attentive to my meager needs as I pour my coffee and select a rather tasty blueberry muffin. The host insists on bagging up several more muffins for me to pack along today in case I get hungry down the road. Of course, I accepted. I hate to think that so much food may go to waste. Besides, they are really good muffins.

While preparing the GS to roll, I chat a bit with the two housekeeping staff sitting on the bench taking a smoke break. Apparently, they are waiting for me to leave so they can get into my room to do their job. Since one of them has lived in Socorro her whole life and the other has been here for the last 20 years, I asked them of the origin of the name of their city. They were quick with the answer; Socorro is Spanish for the word 'help.' When I asked if the 'help' was being offered or asked for, they were at a loss for further information. However, I found the answer on a New Mexico history plaque on the edge of town. Seems that over 400 years ago the 'help' was being offered to Spanish settlers after they traveled across the desert arriving near here in 1598. The Piro Pueblo Indians offered the weary and ailing travelers food and water after they survived the Jornada del Muerto (Journey of the Dead), a particularly difficult 100 mile stretch of desert.
As I roll into the desert on the GS, I think of the blueberry muffins tucked into the GS topcase. The giving spirit is still alive and well in Socorro today.

Over 100 years ago these stockyards were the happening place in Magdalena, NM. Ranchers would drive their cattle and sheep up to 125 miles to the these shipping pens to be loaded onto railcars for delivery to the eastern markets. These shipping yards stayed in use until Santa Fe closed the rail line in 1971.

(click on any photo to enlarge)

History is still alive, at least in name, just outside of town. Cowboy Action Shootouts happen two times a month at high noon (brief history here). Magdalena Trail Drivers Cowboy Action Shooters

Anyone familiar with the 1997 movie, Contact, might already know about this next place between Magdalena and Datil, NM on US 60. This is where Jodie Foster's character received first contact from other world life forms.

The Very Large Array (VLA) is one of the world's foremost astronomical radio observatories.

(click on any photo to enlarge)

Each large radio antennae weighs over 200 tons and is moved using specially built rails. There are 27 antennae spread out over three arms forming a Y. Each arm of the Y is 13 miles long. Their configuration varies and is changed every 3 to 4 months. They are in the B configuration today. The largest configuration is Configuration A where the telescopes are stretched over the full length of each axis arm and simulates a single dish that is over 22 miles in diameter. The smallest is Configuration D when they are within .4 mile of the center in a tight pattern.

Anyone visiting might want to remember that this is the high desert. The temperature was a sunny 53 degrees during my visit--just right in my opinion, but possibly cool for some, especially if the sun isn't shining.

The VLA visitor center is open until sunset and has a very informative video to show those wanting to learn more about the big dishes of the desert.

Visitors are allowed to take a walk to get a close up view of the antennae. I took the walk. Each antenna is 82 feet in diameter. A baseball diamond could fit inside the dish.

While I was under the shade of the dish, I heard a hum and the gears started moving. How cool to be right under the antennae dish as it starts changing direction to tune in a different section of the sky.

The Continental Divide is always a significant landmark as one travels across the country from one coast to the opposite coast.

(click on any photo to enlarge)

All this talk of dishes is making me hungry . . . hungry for PIE. Good thing Pie Town is just down the road! Where else would one go to find the best pie? Pie Town, NM!

The Daily Pie Cafe in Pie Town, NM. But do you notice how empty the parking lot is? Seems that my plans are going afoul. The Daily Pie is closed on Mondays! But I have a backup plan as I turn back down the road and across the highway.

The other local competitor in Pie Town -- PIE-O-NEER. But criminey! They are closed too! What is this?! I ride all the way to Pie Town, NM for PIE, and there is no pie to be had in town? Shouldn't there be an economic law or something that says that one of the two pie places in Pie Town must remain open for travelers wanting pie? I would think it wouldn't be that hard to come up with a schedule where they alternate days off.

I feel the need to file a formal complaint, but there's no Mayor's office or any sort of city offices since Pie Town is unincorporated. So I head to the only official looking place in town. The Pie Town Post Office. The other option was the mechanic's garage.

I lodge my complaint with these local folks. They both agree with me about "there ought to be a rule," but shake their heads as they confirm what I had already concluded; no pie for me today in Pie Town.

Guess I'll have to come back another time to PIE TOWN. But not on a Monday.

The Narrows: Northbound on NM117 heading toward Grants, NM. The Narrows is so named because the road is squeezed through a narrow corridor between the black lava flows of El Malpais and the sandstone cliffs of the Cebollita Mesa.

La Ventana Trail leading to one of New Mexico's largest natural arches. I take a muffin, a bottle of water, and my camera from the topcase of the GS, then start my short hike for a better look.

Nice close-up views of the sandstone cliffs that I've been riding past as I travel through The Narrows on highway 117.

The natural arch carved out of the sandstone.

Before I left, a pickup pulled up and a conversation was struck up as often happens. This chance encounter lasted over 30 minutes and left me with a good feeling about people. I meet so many folks across the USA and some interactions are just more special than others. It's always energizing to meet folks that leave me with a positive energy even hours after the chance encounter. I'm sorry that I didn't think to snap a photo of Bruce and MJ before we parted ways in search of our own stories.

El Malpais National Monument
"El Malpais" means "the badlands" in Spanish and there's no doubt how the area got its name. You can see the ancient lava flow on the basin floor. The Park covers over 350,000 acres and much of it is covered with the lava flow making travel on the basin a very difficult venture.

Crossing the Continental Divide again. This time in Continental Divide, NM.

I finally arrive at my target stop for the night . . . The El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, NM. This hotel has a lot of history and is full of character. It is where the movie stars stayed back in the 1940s during the filming of the western movies in the area.

Tomorrow: I gain the protection of the Navajo ghost beads.

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#143 Smokey of the Capitans

Fleeter Log #143

Smokey of the Capitans

2009 April 26

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:

http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 12 - Sunday
April 26, 2009
206 miles
Giving up on the search for aliens in Roswell, I thought it time to saddle up and continue my westward trek. It's after 12noon by the time I choose the lesser traveled road of NM246 rather than US380 to take me out of town. Both would serve to get me west, but how could I pass up this road. I saw a total of three vehicles in the 77 miles to Capitan, NM.

Much of the way, I have the El Capitan Mountains as a far off target on the lonely flat stretch of asphalt.

Capitan, NM offers travelers respite and a chance to visit the burial site of the original Smokey Bear.

Smokey was so named after a firefighter found him orphaned by a forest fire in the Capitan Mountains in May of 1950. The fire spared his life, but left the five pound cub with burned paws and no home. He went to live in a zoo in Washington, DC for 26 years, but in death was returned to Capitan to be buried near the mountain where he started his life.

(click on any photo to enlarge)

While stopping to learn about the original Smokey Bear in Capitan, I saw a Vstrom pass by that I had first spotted almost 100 miles ago at the Walmart on my way out of Roswell. Then I saw him again fueling up at the Shell station on the west side of Capitan. I pull and in say hello to my fellow two-wheeled traveler from the east. He rode from West Virginia and is headed to Silver City for the night. Leaving the green pines of Capitan, I led the way while the Vstrom rider followed me across the flat expanse as we passed to the north of the White Sands Missile Range.

When I saw the sign for the Buckhorn, I was reminded that I had read that it has a good reputation as a burger joint. I made a u-turn and pulled in with Vstrom rider seemingly in tow. When he heard my explanation for the stop, he agreed that it was good time to eat and this looked as good as any place. We were disappointed when the riders sitting in the shade called out to us that the Buckhorn was closed today. The other burger joint in town, Owl Bar (also with a good burger reputation), was also closed. No burgers in San Antonio today for us. He turned south on I25 and I turned back through town for a couple more photos.

San Antonio, NM is known in history as the place where Conrad Hilton got his start in the hospitality business. As a young boy he carried travelers' luggage from the train station to his family's hotel. San Antonio isn't a big place. What you see is the whole town. If you look closely, you can almost see the windmill on the other side of town where I took the above photo.

I turned north onto I26 and went just a short 10 miles up the road to the Super 8 where I would lay my head for the night. But before finding the Super 8, I found the Old San Miguel Mission of Socorro, NM.

I stop early tonight since tomorrow I have a long day planned -- not in miles, but in planned stops. The K-Bob next to the hotel takes care of me meal-wise. Not high on character like I supposed the Buckhorn to be, but open for business and within walking distance of my room. There's always trade-offs.

Tomorrow: Will I make "contact"?

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#142 Aliens in Roswell?

Fleeter Log #142
Aliens in Roswell?
2009 April 24-25

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:
http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 10 - 11, Friday & Saturday
April 24-25, 2009
31 miles

At 8:30am I'm riding back into Roswell in search of aliens and feeling a bit heady with the anticipation.
It doesn't take long to find signs of aliens, but no actual aliens. If they are here, they are being a bit elusive.
I decide that the best place to learn the story behind the Roswell Incident would be to visit the Museum and Research Center, but it doesn't open until 9am.
So I spot a coffee shop across the street and decide a cup of coffee is in order.
I saw these two suspects loitering across the street and thought I spotted an alien for sure, but upon closer inspection see that they are the blow up kind of aliens for sale in the store. Close, but not what I'm looking for.
I try to mix with the locals and not make any sudden moves as I drink my coffee. Maybe if I blend in with the local fabric and pay close attention to my surroundings, I'll spy a real alien.
No luck in finding an alien while watching the street traffic pass by the coffee shop. Time to be more proactive. I'll pay my money like a good tourist and do my hunting in the UFO Museum and Research Center.

If there are Close Encounters of the Third Kind, then it would stand to reason that there are Close Encounters of the First and Second Kind. What are they?

Close Encounters of the First Kind: Sighting of one or more UFOs at a distance of 500 feet or less.
Close Encounters of the Second Kind: Sighting of a UFO with associated physical effects (e.g. heat, electrical interference, etc).
Close Encounters of the Third Kind: Sighting of an actual animated being (presumably an alien).

Story goes that in early July of 1947, something crashed in a remote area north of Roswell. The debris field is strewn for miles over two counties. The debris material was of a substance never before seen by those that found it or other locals that studied it. But the military was interested. Real Interested. They secured the area, combing and clearing the entire area -- removing any debris left behind from the crash. The government went to a lot of trouble to clean a up a very large crash site cause by . . . a weather balloon?
http://roswellproof.homestead.com/index.html

So the question is: Was there a Close Encounter of the Third kind near Roswell, New Mexico in July of 1947? Well now, that is the question, isn't it? The debate has gone on for years and will probably never be settled to everyone's satisfaction.

Since there is no proof in the museum . . . like an alien swimming in a pickling solution, the debate rages on. Alien or weather balloon? Does it really matter? The point is . . . The question exists!

The whole town of Roswell seems to have been bitten by the Alien Bug. And just think, until 12 or 13 years ago Roswell was not associated with aliens in the commercial way that is evident today. Up until the 50th Anniversary of the Roswell Incident, this bit of Roswell's past had been successfully swept under the rug of history and the details obscured by time (with help from the government) . . . even most of Roswell's own residents had never heard the story or were afraid to repeat it. But after the U.S. Air Force published its "final report" of what happened in July 1947, the debate was fired up again. Now everyone in town knows the story. Some believe, some don't. But everyone knows the story.

Stan Crosby, organizer of the original UFO Encounter of 1997 states, "We're not blessed with an incredible beach or gorgeous mountains. We had a UFO or balloon crash, and if it was balloon crash, then it was the most famous balloon crash in the world. . . . We have taken lemons and made lemonade out of it, besides when was the last time Roswell was on the cover of Time magazine? People will complain that it's over commercialized, but at least they're spelling Roswell right in all of these newspapers and now the entire world knows about our town."

Twelve years later . . .Roswell is still known for the Roswell Incident: The place where alien life forms may have crash landed on earth in the summer of 1947.

Once upon a time the location of the New Mexico Military Institute was what people knew Roswell for.

The way Roswell described itself before the Alien Invasion.

Hmmm . . . I wonder if there WERE aliens flying around in UFOs, if they would find it interesting that an earthling was conducting experiments of liquid fuel rocket flights in Roswell and find it worthy of a fly-by visit? Ummm, I wonder . . .
Did I mention that there was a storm the night of the crash?


Once upon a time, many years ago in a place called Goliad in the land of Texas, I had a close friend named Sheila Keith. We became friends during our high school years and though I was born and raised in Goliad, Sheila and her family were Okies that found themselves in South Texas as her Dad was a trucker in the oil business. Sheila's time in Goliad was only a short two years, but the friendship sealed there has lasted over thirty years. Today I will see Sheila again for the first time since 1985. While living in Roswell with her family, Sheila met a local boy that she took a shine to. When her Dad was transferred and it was time for the family to move once again, Sheila decided to stay in Roswell and marry her beau, Hub Corn.

I'm still a bit heady even after touring the UFO Museum. Maybe it isn't the anticipation of finding an alien, but the anticipation of seeing a good friend again after many years.

Sheila hasn't changed much in 24 years. She is still the same bubbly girl though now a mother of three grown children and the matriarch of the Eden Valley Farm north of Roswell, NM. I will spend the next couple of days with Sheila and her family on the Eden Valley Farm.

The road to the family home is a few miles of gravel. The GS felt right at home. It was obviously more prepared for that type of route than I. But since the surface is well maintained, I manage with no problems. The GS showed me the way.
The next day Sheila shows me around the farm. It's lamb birthing time in New Mexico. This new-born lamb is just minutes old. Mama Ewe isn't so sure about us getting this close, but good thing we did. The lamb was lying with it's neck bent back in a way that blocked it's airway. Sheila repositioned it and the lamb started breathing again. It even raised its head for the photo. She saved it's life . . . another day on the ranch.

(click on any photo to enlarge)

After saying hello to some of the new lambs (over twenty were born just today), Sheila takes me on a private tour. This time we aren't checking on the sheep, cattle, or horses. She has something a bit more unusual in mind to show me.

We head about 20 miles up the road, through a few gates and across a few cattle guards.

We finally arrive at a remote place located over ten miles from the public highway. It just might be one of the most unique places in the history of the earth.

Sheila explains: Her husband, Hub, says he didn't know about this special location when his family bought the property in 1976, and only found out after a bunch of strangers started showing up and traipsing around in the early 1990s. Hub had been finding a growing evidence of trespassing. Thinking there may be drug activity happening on his property, he notified a local LEO to keep an eye out. A few days later the LEO contacted Hub with his findings. Hub didn't believe what he was hearing at first, but it did make sense. Apparently, this location had been made public by those who were researching what occurred in Roswell many years ago. According to the researchers, one stormy night in July of 1947 an unidentified craft traveling at a high rate of speed skipped over the flat plains of Lincoln and Chaves counties and eventually came to an abrupt halt when hitting the limestone wall you see in the photo. The stone pillars have been erected by those who believe, showing the flight path they think the craft took when it crashed that night.

In front of the place where the believers determined that the aliens met their doom is a large stone tablet that reads:

"We don't know who they were
We don't know why they came
We only know they changed our view of the universe

This universal sacred site
is dedicated July 1997
to the beings
who met their destinies
near Roswell, New Mexico
July 1947"

(click on any photo to enlarge)

In the still remoteness of the location, one can just about imagine how it may have happened that night 60 years ago.

The truth is out there.

Do you believe?

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#141 Trading Saddles

Fleeter Log #141
Trading Saddles
2009 April 22-23

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:
http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 8 - Wednesday
April 22, 2009
0 miles

This is what my view from the saddle looks like today. Its been a long time since I've had this view.

My ride for the day.

After some arena work to give the horses a good workout in the sand, Donna and I leave the barns behind and head to open pasture.

We find a fence line to ride, because that's where we ran out of trail.

Something just looks out of place here . . . Oh, I know what it is.
Wrong name on the spurs. I was borrowing Donna's spurs.

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I don't think the GS looks completely out of place here. The GS has the kind of personality that fits into many different settings!

As the sun went down, Donna and I went out to Jerry's Hill to honor Jerry's memory and enjoy a view he always liked.



It's been an emotional day. Spending time in the saddle (while horseback) and at Jerry's place, brought back a lot of memories of my elder brother. It was the first time I'd been back to Hereford since his funeral in 2004.
Emotional, but still a good day!


Day 9 - Thursday
April 23, 2009
181 miles

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After one more visit to The Ranch House Restaurant for the lunch buffet, I pack up to leave town . . . My advice: If you are ever hungry when in Hereford Texas, eat here. Good food, small price.
. . . and say goodbye to my new friend, Molly the Cow Dog, before pulling out to continue my westward trek.

Anyone looking for a RTE destination and having a hankering for a Texas Cheeseburger, might want to try the Biggest Small Town in Texas . . . Friona. Word is that they know something of cheeseburgers here.

I cross into the Land of Enchantment . . . and another state gets its color.

I suppose no place is perfect, but Portales, NM doesn't try to hide the fact that not all their population is the friendliest sort.

I saw a lot of road like this on my way from Texas to Roswell. At least it was overcast with a hint of showers in the area holding the high temperature to a reasonable 85 degrees.

I found these ruins of an old school house not too far down a dirt road off US70 NE of Roswell.


Arriving in Roswell, there is no doubt that there is an alien connection to the town.
Some obvious signs, and some not so obvious.


After making a pass through town, I make my way to a friend's house that I met through the MTF for the night.

Tomorrow I will look for more aliens . . .

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#140 Moonshine to Texas

Fleeter Log #140
Moonshine to Texas
2009 April 19-21

Moonshine was only the beginning of the adventure.
The Great Southwest is calling. I am answering.
Westward I shall go!

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:
http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 5 - Sunday
April 19, 2009
365 miles

(click on any photo to enlarge)

I leave Casey, Il in the rain and find the thunderstorm somewhere in Missouri. But just before leaving the State of Illinois, the sun came out as if to say "Goodbye and travel well. We will spend some quaility time together when you arrive in the Southwest!"

While traveling south along the Mississippi River, waiting for an anvenue across the big muddy stream, I rode a strip of pavement that offered a 2 for 1 bonus. State highways 3 and 146 meet at Ware and wear the labels of "the Lincoln Heritage Trail" and "Great River Road-Illinios."

After crossing the Mississippi River at Cape Girardeau, I ride into the eastern edge of the Ozarks covered by dark skies.
Note how I am able to take this shot right-handed -- thanks to a fellow moonshiner. Before leaving Casey this morning, I met a fellow under the hotel's portico as a group of us were looking for protection from the rain while loading up our motorcycles. He gave me something that I, at the time, had no idea of its value. I knew it was a Good Thing, but I had no idea HOW good. I always use a Crampbuster, even on the RT where I have a cruise control. But on the GS, without a cruise control, the Crampbuster alone just wasn't cutting it. There was still the need to completely remove my hand from the throttle in order to stretch out my elbow. In only two days when riding from Virginia to Indiana, I was already beginning to feel the effects in my elbow and shoulder of all day spent on the throttle. This little yellow o-ring from Caterpillar will prove to be worth far more than the silicone it is made from! Thanks to the fellow who gave it to me. I wish I could remember your name . . . sorry.

Hwy 34 from Cape Girardeau to US60 near Van Buren is a wonderful gem of a twisty road that travels through Marble Falls as it transverses the Salem Plateau of the Ozarks. This is the kind of road that makes the day on two wheels a success no matter what else the day may bring before coming to an end.

I WILL get wet before the day is over! . . . that is a promise made by the looming dark clouds.

Carter County Missouri has an interesting courthouse . . . found in Van Buren.

Anyone traveling US60 in southern Missouri, be advised: State troopers spend a lot of time there with radar guns! And yes, even the GS is ticket worthy . . . according to a certain Missouri State Trooper patrolling US60 near Van Buren. And trying to outrun an eminent storm is not a worthy excuse, or so I'm told by said trooper.

Tonight I will dry out in Willow Springs, MO and continue my way to Oklahoma via Kansas tomorrow.


Day 6 - Monday
April 20, 2009
420 miles

On my way to Texas, I arrive in Texas sooner than planned!
Texas County, Missouri

Here in Mount Vernon, MO you will have more than your normal choices when you stop for fuel. Yep, that was a fill-up. And this will get me about 200 miles down the road before I'll need to stop and do it again.

Time to stop in search of Ink. Wilson's Creek National Battlefield is found on an inviting rural road southwest of Springfield, MO.

I find another ink stamp here at the George Washington Carver National Monument. Good video too.

We don't see these much anymore. Might already even have to explain what it is to the younger generations. Let me know if anyone reading this doesn't know what you're looking at or shares it with a younger reader that needs to have it explained. I spotted this booth in Coffeyville, KS.

Leaving Missouri, I ride half way across Kansas before turning south in Caldwell, KS to drop into Oklahoma. This stretch of pavement follows along the Chisholm Trail. I will follow it as far as Enid, OK.

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The sun sinks low along the old Chisholm Trail.

This ride has carried me deep into the heart of Braum's Country. This evening, I indulge.
Tonight I sleep in Enid, OK. Tomorrow I cross back into the land of my birth . . . Texas.

Day 7 - Tuesday
April 21, 2009
372 miles
Ink is on the list of priorities as I make my way across Oklahoma and into the Black Kettle National Grassland. The Washita Battlefield lies just outside of Cheyenne, Oklahoma. This new visitor center opened less than two years ago and is impressive in the story it tells through its architecture. The video is well worth the time to watch it. Captivating in telling the tragic story of what happened here.

The GS takes on a few miles of the infamous Route 66 as we find our way west along I40. Route 66 shows some of its oddities as we pass through.

Speaking of oddities, I still don't understand my last stop in Oklahoma. I took the exit off I40 into downtown Erick and found the Sandhills Curiosity Shop located in the City Meat Market. It is a curious place that can't really be explained. Don't look for any price tags. Nothing here is for sale. It's not that kind of shop.

The oft photographed Leaning Tower of the Texas Panhandle.

Meet my nephew, Layton. He's a student at West Texas A&M University in Canyon, TX. I arrive in town hungry and met Layton at the restaurant near the University. His Aunt Donna (my late brother Jerry's wife) drives in from Hereford to meet us for supper.

After supper, I follow Donna back to Hereford as the sun sinks below the horizon.
Tomorrow I will let the GS spend the day resting while I try out a different saddle . . . the type of saddle I used to spend a lot of time in when I was growing up in south Texas.

Copyright 2009 Fleeter Logs

#139 Moonshine Lunch Run

Fleeter Log #139
Moonshine Lunch Run
2009 April 15-18

It's April, so it's Moonshine Time again! Time for riders far and near to answer the call to join Terry Hammond for lunch in Moonshine, Illinois where the hamburgers are made one at a time with love by Helen and her crew at the Moonshine General Store.

5th Annual Moonshine Lunch Run (MLR)

Since this event started in 2005, the number of riders responding to the call has grown from 30 attending the first MLR to over 600 riding to southern Illinois this year to have a moonburger with Terry.

This will be my third year to join in the camaraderie.

Interactive map of this trip can be found here:
http://jasonjonas.org/spot/tripViewer.do?id=1229

Day 1 - Wednesday
April 15, 2009
405 miles

(click on any photo to enlarge)

I started rolling at 11:00am and headed westward in a misty drizzle. This will be the first trip out of state for the F650GS twin. I've had it for 8 months and have only taken it on a few short trips within Virginia. The last few months I've spent coming up with ways to personalize the GS to serve as a long distant rider.

Some changes you may notice are the taller touring windscreen with a support bar to mount the GPS onto, FendaExtender, crashbars, bash plate, aerostich panniers, Hawkeoiler, etc.

This trip will only be starting when I reach Moonshine IL. From there, I will continue my way to Texas, Southern California, Utah, and back home through Ohio before arriving back home in mid-May. With the wet weather and temps in the 40s, I will be wearing my BMG jacket and carrying my mesh jacket strapped to my duffle.
Today is just about getting down the road, closer to Illinois. There won't be any photos to share or stories worth telling. It is an uneventful ride through Virginia, West Virginia, and into Kentucky.

I arrive in Grayson, Kentucky at 6:40pm and check-in to the Quality Inn. After getting the GS unloaded, I have supper next door at Long John Silvers. Tomorrow I will begin Flower Sniffin' as I find the back roads to Moonshine.


Day 2 - Thursday
April 16, 2009
380 miles

(click on any photo to enlarge)

I thoroughly enjoyed highway 10 from Vanceburg, KY to I75. It's like being on a kiddie roller coaster for about 80 miles through rural Kentucky. I love these kind of roads! Not any still photos along here . . . Maybe I'm still in a "no photo mode" left over from yesterday or maybe I am concentrating on getting to know the GS and not thinking so much about photos. I did make a couple movie clips using the RAM mount on the handlebar. I may add a video clip here later. But trust me, KY10 is a great little back road!

Madison, KY sets on the banks of the Ohio River along the Kentucky-Indiana state line. I spent enough time in Madison to find the river walk area and stop for a few photos.

The river walk area of Madison, Indiana.


Highway 7 leaves Madison heading north gaining elevation as it twists its way past a nice waterfall.

After passing through Columbus and Bloomington Indiana, I cross another state line into Illinois at Hutsonville on highway 154 and find my way to hwy 2 to Annapolis, Illinois.

The sun is shining and I've NEVER SEEN MOONSHINE IN THE SUNLIGHT. So I decide to ride by and see what the Moonshine General Store looks like with the sun shining on it and an empty parking lot.

Helen and Roy of Moonshine fame. They live above the store and came down to say hello when they saw the VA license plate. They knew that it must be someone arriving early for the "rush on moonburgers" planned for Saturday. Helen said she's expecting a large crowd since the weather is nice this year (for a first) and she's ready!


I gave Helen a hug and told her I'd be back Saturday for my moonburger, then continued my way to Casey where Terry was hosting a cookout in his backyard for those arriving early.

It's a good thing Terry has a huge yard! I'm not sure how many showed up, but I know it was too many for me to actually meet everyone there. The motorcycles were lined up along the street in front of his house and stretched around the corner, down the side street and all the way to the next cross street! What I'm trying to say is . . . there were a lot of motorcycles and people there! As I made a U-turn and came back to the end of the side street a 1/2 block from his back yard, folks were coming up talking to me before I could even get my kickstand down. The party was in full swing when I arrived, but there was plenty food left and I eventually made my way to it. I saw a lot of friends and met even more.

It's after 9:00pm when I arrive at the Comfort Inn of Casey (host hotel) where I have reservations for the next three nights. The hotel's 52 rooms are totally booked up and I'd venture to say that 99.8% of their customers for the next few days are friends of Terry Hammond. And if you know Terry, you will understand the significance of that important percentage designation.


Day 3 - Friday
April 17, 2009
51 miles

The next couple days will be minimal mileage days. I'll only ride to join Moonshine friends for meals. Today's lunch is being served to us by the Stovepipe Restaurant at the Lincoln Springs Resort in Charleston, IL. We have the entire backroom reserved and they are set up to feed us using a buffet line. Choices are limited, but what's presented to us is excellent.

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Me, riding with some of my Goldwinger friends through the back roads of Coles & Clark Counties of Illinois.

(photo of me by Ray Williams of Alabama)

On the way back to Casey, I stopped at the Oilfield Store on highway 40 about 5 miles north of I70. This is another small local grill with a reputation for good burgers. I'll have to try them one of the days when I return to the area.

My good friends, Pat and Greg of Kentucky, showed up to collect a bonus as they participated in the Cape Fear 1000 Rally. To collect the bonus, they had to ride to Casey, IL and take a photo with Terry Hammond holding their rally flag at Richard's Farm Restaurant during a two hour time window. They arrived early and came by the hotel to say hello to moonshiners. I was happy to see them!

The Friday night's meal is the main gathering where the most of us will be at one place at the same time and Terry takes this opportunity to thank everyone for joining him for the weekend. He also has cool little engraved metal awards he gives to those riders that traveled the farthest to join him for a moonburger. I got one for being in the Top 50. Last year I was in the Top 25 Long Distance Riders. Goes to show how many more riders from farther away have shown up this year. If Terry isn't careful, this MLR thing just might grow into a huge affair! umh! Ya think?!

Arriving for the Friday night supper at Richard's Farm Restaurant.


Day 4 - Saturday
April 18, 2009
30 miles

Finally! The day has arrived. How many moonburgers do you think Helen will sell today? A good answer would be . . . A WHOLE LOT OF THEM!

The line of hungry moonies.

Helen works on the honor system at Moonshine. You go order you burger, watch as they make it, go to the counter and tell Helen what you're paying for. She or her helper (today she has lot's of helpers) ring you up. I let her know that I would also grab a cola and a bag of chips on my way out to the picnic tables.

Here I am sharing a chuckle with our guy, Terry Hammond. I waited in line for over 40 minutes for my chance at a moonburger. When this photo was taken I'd already eaten, but you can see the line in the background. Some hungry folks were still waiting to get in and get their moonburger.

(photo by RonJS)

Normally Helen turns the grill off at 12:30pm sharp, but today she said she'd keep flipping burgers as long as there were people waiting in line. I sure hope Terry eventually gets his burger. Terry always says that he will always wait and bring up the rear after everyone else has had a chance to get their burger and he'll be the last one to ride his motorcycle away from the Moonshine General Store. I sure hope he had a good breakfast . . .

By the time Helen turned off the grill, she had sold 1,119 moonburgers! This is a new record for "moonburgers sold" in one day! Per Terry's count, there were 600 motorcycles in the parking lot and 700 people that showed up to join him for a burger in Moonshine, Illinois. Yep. This just might grow into a huge affair.

I've had my two moonburgers (I didn't have breakfast) and am ready to head back into Casey to visit with a few of Terry's friends and kick tires in the hotel parking lot.

Until next year . . . Bye Helen. Love your burgers!

(photo by RonJS)

Tomorrow I leave Casey heading westward.